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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.